Frequently Asked Questions

Going by HomeGuide's national numbers, installed epoxy is $4 to $10 per square foot. A two-car garage typically lands around $1,600 to $5,800. For polyaspartic the figure is about $5 to $12 per square foot. Stripping old coatings, fixing cracks and adding decorative finishes push the total up, so the written price comes once we have measured and tested your floor.

Standard epoxy does not handle sunlight well. HomeGuide gives it a poor to fair UV score, so it may yellow in sunlit areas. It also takes longer to cure than polyaspartic, and it fails if the concrete is not ground clean or is pushing up moisture. We handle those risks with grinding, a moisture test and a UV-stable topcoat.

It depends on the floor. For sunny garages and outdoor slabs, polyaspartic tends to win, since HomeGuide gives it an excellent UV resistance rating and it cures in one to two days. Epoxy still makes a thick, tough base coat, so plenty of the floors we install pair an epoxy build coat with a polyaspartic top layer.

We have no reliable market figures to share. What we can say is why people here ask for it: a sealed slab rinses clean after summer storms, it stops oil and pool chemicals from soaking in, and it turns a dusty garage into usable space. If you want the drier months, when the air is less muggy, ask early so the date you want is still open.

The drier, cooler months after the wet season are the most forgiving, because the air is less muggy and storms are rare. We still coat floors in summer. We start early, watch the dew point closely and often use faster-curing polyaspartic so the floor is protected before afternoon rain.

According to HomeGuide, polyaspartic handles heavy vehicles after roughly 24 to 48 hours, whereas a standard epoxy floor can need as many as seven days before it is fully cured. Temperature and humidity on the day change those times. We give you specific walk, return and parking times for your floor.

Many associations do, especially for attached or shared garages. Check your rules for color limits, work hours and what paperwork the board wants from a contractor. For the board's review we can send the product data sheets along with our written scope of work.

HomeGuide's national figures run about $1,600 to $5,800 for epoxy and $2,000 to $6,900 for polyaspartic on a two-car garage. Taking off an old coating, crack repair and a full flake finish all change the number. We measure and test the floor, then give you a written price.

No coating keeps water from getting into the garage. It does keep silt and storm water from soaking into the slab, so cleanup is a hose and a squeegee. If your garage floods often, we will talk through drainage and the threshold before you decide.

Rolling tires are fine on a well-bonded system. The risk is point loads, like a trailer jack or a kickstand on a hot day. A pad under those spots spreads the weight and protects the finish.

Per HomeGuide, a polyaspartic floor can usually carry heavy vehicles after about 24 to 48 hours, while a standard epoxy floor can need up to seven days to harden all the way. Your written times come from the system we install and the weather that day.

No. We grind off paint and kit coatings first, because fresh resin is never stronger than whatever it sits on. Removal is part of the written quote.

They are the same thing. Vinyl flake, chip and flake epoxy all describe colored vinyl pieces broadcast into a base coat, then locked under clear topcoat.

A full broadcast leaves some texture in the topcoat, which helps grip. If you want extra traction, a fine non-slip grit can be mixed into the last coat. No coated floor is slip proof, so mats at wet entry points still help.

The topcoat matters more than the chips. A UV-stable clear coat protects the color underneath, while standard epoxy can yellow in direct sun. Any floor that sunlight reaches gets a UV-stable topcoat from us.

Yes, with an outdoor-rated, UV-stable topcoat that has enough texture for bare feet. For pool decks we often suggest a lighter-colored textured system instead, which stays cooler underfoot.

Sweep or blow off sand, then wash with warm water plus a pH-neutral cleaner. Avoid harsh solvents and acidic cleaners, which can dull the topcoat.

For sunny spots and quick turnarounds, often yes. HomeGuide gives polyaspartic an excellent UV rating against poor to fair for epoxy, and it cures in about one to two days. Epoxy builds thicker per coat, so many floors combine an epoxy build layer with polyaspartic on top.

HomeGuide gives a lifespan of about 10 to 20 years or more. Prep, traffic and care make the biggest difference on any floor.

Bob Vila's guide says it is not suited to DIY, mainly because it sets so quickly once mixed. In summer heat that window gets even shorter.

Some products have a noticeable odor while they are applied and curing. We can suggest lower-odor products, which helps in attached garages and condos, and we ventilate during the job.

Yes. It is one of the better choices for lanais and patios because it holds up to UV. Outdoors we add texture for grip.

It can, but it is not our first suggestion for a working garage. Grit and hot tires are hard on a smooth gloss finish, and open-door sun calls for a UV-stable topcoat. A flake floor usually wears better there.

High gloss can turn slippery once it is wet. For spots where water or bare feet are likely, we either mix a fine grit into the topcoat or switch to a satin finish.

We can get close with pigment blends and show you samples first. Because metallic finishes move as they are worked, the final pattern is always somewhat unique.

We coat concrete only. Tile and its adhesive have to come up and the slab underneath has to be ground and repaired before a metallic pour.

It depends on the system and the size of the floor. Bob Vila's guide says a polyaspartic install may close a business for a day or two. We often phase the work so only part of the space closes at a time.

A properly built 100% solids system on well-prepared concrete is made for it. Forklift floors usually get a thicker build and a hard topcoat.

Yes. Kitchens usually get a seamless, textured system with coving at the walls. Check with your inspector on any requirements and we will build the plan to meet them.

Sometimes, if it is sound and well bonded. Often it has to be ground off. We test adhesion and decide during the site visit.

Yes. Lines, walkways and marked hazard areas are laid into the coating and sealed beneath the topcoat.

According to HomeGuide, Kool Deck is a non-slip finish that helps bring surface temperature down. Lighter colors also help, since dark surfaces absorb more heat.

If the concrete is sound, usually yes. Cracks get repaired and a new surface goes on top. If the slab is heaving or broken, replacement may be needed, and we will tell you.

Most decks take a few days, depending on size, repairs, weather and the system. We give you a schedule with the estimate.

Yes. Lanais often suit flake or solid systems with a UV-stable topcoat and texture. We protect the screens and frames during the work.

Outdoor-rated systems are made for pool water, but rinsing the deck now and then keeps buildup down. We tell you which cleaners to use.